ABSTRACT
Topical retinoids, compounds that are metabolites, analogues, or derivatives of retinol and possess biological vitamin A activity, are among the most used adjunctive agents for the mitigation of fine wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation, and tactile roughness of photodamaged and chronically aged skin. Retinoic acid (RA) is the most active biological form of vitamin A and remains the medical treatment of choice for photoaged skin. Retinyl palmitate (RP) is the major storage form of vitamin A in the skin and, because RP is also the most stable of available vitamin A esters, it is readily incorporated into the oil phase of cosmetic creams or lotions. Therefore, the topical application of RP is a practical strategy for increasing the levels of vitamin A in the skin. Usual cosmetic product concentrations of RA range from 0.025% to 0.1% and those of RP range from 0.1% to 5%. With a maximum absorbance around 325 nm, RA and RP absorb both ultraviolet A and B radiation (UVA and UVB) in incident sunlight. A 1-year study was conducted in mice to determine whether RA and RP would alter the photocarcinogenicity of broad-UV spectrum light generated by xenon arc lamps, termed simulated solar light (SSL), or narrow spectrum UV light generated by UVA and UVB lamps.